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Singapore has a reputation for being sterile, highly disciplined and robotically organised: essentially, everything that Bangkok is not. Reading BangkokRecorder, the likelihood is that you may be drawn to diametrically opposing metropolitan qualities. If Bangkok is South-East Asia's entertaining, unpredictable Uncle, then perhaps Singapore is the family's straight-edged, prodigal son. Following recent changes to Thailand's visa laws and with Asia's biggest annual party happening in two weeks, there's a good chance that you may be visiting Singapore some time soon. With this in mind, we bashed together a brief, comparative guide to the city by relating it to equivalents you may recognise from home.
Singapore Clubs
'Zouk' is Singapore's superclub. Imagine Bangkok's 'Astra', 'Bed Supperclub', 'QBar' and 'BEC Tero Hall' all rolled into one venue. On your left as you approach is the Wine Bar where people can hook up before settling on exactly where they'll be heading next. You see, the building consists of three converted warehouses originally built on the Singapore River in 1919. Now adjoining clubs, S$25 (THB590) for girls and S$35 (THB820) for guys gains entry into all three.
 With a capacity for 2,500 people, the huge interior of Zouk's main hall owes much of its design to Gaudi's Park Guell in Barcelona with its elaborate mosaics. The emphasis in here is on dancing. Some of the world's top DJs have played Zouk over the years, such as Carl Cox, Paul Oakenfold, Sasha, Louie Vega and Seb Fontaine. Live acts have included Bjork, Placebo, The Chemical Brothers, Kylie and, most recently, Peaches, who was stopped from playing Bangkok a few months ago due to Thai visa problems.
Wednesday nights have become an institution with 'Mambo Jambo'. Every line of the familiar '70s, '80s and '90s pop songs played each week has inspired unique dance routines somehow known by every last person in the club. Consisting mainly of a startling number of arm and hand gestures, not unlike sign language, the moves are transmitted via dedicated groups of friends atop segregated male and female podiums.
It is said that 'Velvet Underground' is the part of Zouk that older Zouk-ers graduate onto and our visit showed it attracting a more consistently beautiful people/media crowd. Original artwork by Keith Harring and Andy Warhol hang on scarlet velvet walls and a new separate bar plays ambient music to those after a break from the dance floor. With its own entrance on the right, Velvet Underground is a more intimate and exclusive setting. Think of it as the supper-club side of Bed in Bangkok (when in full-swing and without the food).
Meanwhile, 'Phuture' next door complements its less 'street' neighbours through a diet of hip hop, break-beats and drum 'n' bass. Hip hop nights at Phuture are ludicrously popular, and it can be quite difficult to move inside when things are in full swing. Think Bangkok's 'Flix'.
www.zoukclub.com.sg
To date, the recently franchised 'Ministry of Sound Singapore' has not proven a challenge to Zouk's supremacy so, if you like, you can think of it as... 'Ministry of Sound Bangkok' (before it closed).
www.ministryofsound.com.sg
 Singapore Bars 'New Asia Bar' on levels 71 & 72 of The Swissotel Stamford is comparable to Bangkok's 'Vertigo' or 'Distil' - bars that both offer spectacular views. Part of the hotel's 'Equinox Complex' which includes several other sky-high bars and restaurants, New Asia bar is the most vibrant, although it can have a strong 'after work', ex-pat presence. The bars' floors are deliberately designed to slope 20 degrees off-centre in order to give a sense of imbalance as you look down on the uber-organised city far below.
It doesn't really matter that the DJ is playing house music - he might as well be playing the banjo - the only better way of seeing Singapore requires being strapped into a window seat on your way home - and the drinks won't be nearly as good. There are some fiendish cocktails served here, and they have thankfully avoided Bangkok's seemingly mandatory 'view tax'. The 'Gentle Testicles' and 'Apple Sour Martini' are worth writing home about so pick up a postcard in the lobby.
Food on offer includes pizza ($22-28, THB520-660), sushi and a barbecue grill (both $20-40, THB 470-940). 'Chicken satay pizza' may seem like a novel idea, but can get rather sickly by the third slice.
Overlooking the action on the 71st floor is the exclusive Club 72. The highest point in the bar, this section is more intimate and offers the best view.
singapore-stamford.swissotel.com
 Loof is another roof-top bar. Only a fraction of New Asia Bar's height, it has an open-air, laid-back vibe. It's a sort of cross between Bangkok's 'Phranakorn Bar & Gallery' and 'Bacchus' with modern, wood-and-steel decor. There is a playful use of silhouetted figures behind opaque glass. The menus double as makeshift shelters in case it rains. It turns out that raining is actually a good thing, as the bar offers buy-one-get-one-free drinks (before 9pm). Yes, "when it rains, [they] pour". The most expensive food item on the menu is $16 (THB380) for the lamb racks, and some Loofalo wings come in at a very reasonable $10 (THB240).
www.loof.com.sg
ZoukOut
We promised you a comparison, but there isn't anything that we can compare the ZoukOut festival to in Thailand. This is mainly due to Singapore's confident self-promotion as a party destination. Thailand's recent moves to curb advertising of alcoholic beverages and raise the minimum drinking age appear destined to discourage party tourism.
In our previous coverage of this event, we've called this six-year event "amazing" (2004 ) and "the best dance music festival in all of Asia" (2005 ). ZoukOut '06 will be held on December 9 at Siloso Beach, Sentosa, from 8pm to 8am. Last year, the event attracted 18,000 punters, many of them Bangkokers unable to stay out in their home city past 2am without going to an after hours bar. Four music arenas spanning 56,000 sq ft across the beach will serve up different dance music genres from house, trance, electro, indie to hip hop. And, of course, it wouldn't be truly Zouk-ed out unless 'Mambo Jambo' was in attendance, so practice your pop music sign language on the way over.
 Having previously hosted big names such as Paul van Dyk, Masters at Work, Timo Maas and Stereo MCs, ZoukOut is bringing over mash-up legends 2Manydjs, the Belgian brothers, Steve Lawler and Ben Sims, while deejay Jazzy Jeff is making a welcome return.
On the Live Stage, Thailand's own Futon have been invited to play alongside Singaporean bands such as Plain Sunset, Electrico and Astreal and Aussie pop punk outfit Stars Don't Fall.
Organisers insist that you bring a raincoat, jacket or warm clothing as well as beachwear and a towel. Better safe than sorry! Advance tickets cost S$38 (THB890) before the event and S$48 (THB1,130) at the door.
www.zoukout.com
 Art
Singapore's cultural melting pot and rapid modernisarion have given rise to a vibrant and innovative arts scene. Although you will have to wait for two distant Septembers to pass if you just missed this year's 'Singapore Biennale', it's certainly an upcoming event to lodge somewhere in the back of your mind, at least until Playground! starts selling 2008 diaries. A major contemporary international art festival, this year featured 95 artists and collectives from over 38 countries and regions including Singapore.
Of the fourteen venues across Singapore in use this year, perhaps City Hall, completed in 1929, is the most impressive. The artists made full use of the building's theatrical judge's chambers, creating some truly memorable pieces that were often disturbing, but never dull. As part of the transformation of Singapore's civic district into an arts and cultural hub, City Hall will be converted into a world class national art gallery by 2012.
This year, the art spilled out of the galleries and onto the streets as Yayoi Kusama transformed the trees along Singapore’s Orchard Road shopping street with her trademark polka-dot motifs.
www.singaporebiennale.org
If this whets your appetite for art, it is comforting to remember that Bangkok hosts 'The Bangkok International Arts Festival' in February. Fear not, we'll be back with interviews and a full line-up of the artists coming to town in the next few weeks.
www.bkkartfest.com
 Accomodation
Unlike Bangkok's remote Yaowarat, Singapore's Chinatown is a five minutes' taxi ride from both the entertainment and business districts. In short, it's a peachy place to set up camp. On 50 Keong Saik Road stands '1929', a boutique hotel that deftly balances classic and retro-vintage styling. No two rooms are alike, but all offer flat screen LCD TVs and complimentary broadband access. The staff are very attentive, and the place has real old world charm. If you can push the boat out, go for one of their suites with outdoor baths set in tropical roof gardens overlooking Chinatown ($280, THB6,590). If not, a double room - compact, yet comfortable - will set you back half the price.
The hotel also houses the 45-seater Ember Restaurant, a branch of which has recently opened in Bangkok. Chef Sebastian Ng creates European cuisine with a tinge of Asian and Japan influence. 'Deep fried soft shell crabs with sweet wasabi aioli' followed by 'pan seared duck breast with braised green lentil and juniper berries sauce', anyone? A three-course set lunch is priced at S$22++ (THB520) a head, while six courses will come in at S$38 (THB890).
www.hotel1929.com
Also in Chinatown is the freshly opened 'New Majestic Hotel' (31-37 Bukit Pasoh Road) . Like Bangkok's 'Reflections' hotel, the New Majestic features concept rooms personalised by contemporary artists. In this case, though, they're all from Singapore. Inspired by David LaChapelle's photography, the fuschia and turquoise 'Pussy Parlour' is the most extravagant room on offer, although the 'Mirror Room' also seems like a lot of fun... with the right person(s).
This is definitely the hip hotel of the moment. New Majestic's glamour factor may remind you of Bangkok's 'Dream' hotel, although you will undoubtedly encounter more guests. Prices range from S$150 - S$250 (THB3,530-5,880).
www.newmajestichotel.com
Eating
Singapore's Little India is far more expansive than Bangkok's equiavalent due to its larger Indian population. If there's one thing that Bangkok lacks, it's an abundance of reasonably-priced Indian restaurants, so it's refreshing to be spoilt for choice. A good place to start is the 'Banana Leaf Apolo Restaurant' on Race Course Road which specializes in fish-head curry.
 The most expensive dish in this South Indian cafeteria-style restaurant is S$18-S$25 (THB420 - 590). A large piece of banana leaf is topped with steaming rice, two papadams, two vegetables and accompanied by delicious spiced sauces. If it gets too spicy for you, ask for some curd (traditional yogurt) or raita (yogurt with cucumber) to cool things down. Cutlery is available, but the done thing is to eat with your hands for the authentic dining experience.
www.littleindia.com.sg
Bored of eating in restaurants? If you're going cold turkey for a Pratunam chicken-rice fix, then look no further than 'Maxwell Food Centre' in Chinatown. Row after row of hawker stalls serve all manner of Asian dishes, but the award-winning 'Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice' is the local favourite. Expect a queue, but a fresh mango juice from a nearby stall can make time fly. If your entourage hasn't filled your six-person plastic table, you should expect fellow diners to join you during busy hours when seats can be a rare commodity.
 Getting there
Air Asia offer cheap flights to Singapore, especially if you book in advance. At the time of going to press, there were flights available from Bangkok for less than THB4,500 in case you still haven't booked for ZoukOut '06.
www.airasia.com
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